Friday, 8 January 2016

Real Gorgona Anchovy paste, and the history of the humble sandwich

When I first found this shard, I thought it was part of an old toothpaste lid because of the similar style and appearance, but actually it's from a pot of anchovy paste.
Mudlarking find: Anchovy paste lid shard
Mudlarking find: Shard overlapping the complete lid design
I inserted the picture of the shard onto the complete lid and it fits perfectly. I love the how it says 'so highly approved of for toast sandwiches'. 

John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich by Thomas Gainsborough , c1783
The sandwich which has become a British icon and a lunchtime staple, is considered to be the namesake of John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich because of the claim that he was the inventor of the food combination. John Montagu was a keen gambler and the story goes that in 1726 during a 24 hour gambling binge he instructed the cook to prepare his food in such a way that it would not interfere with his game. The cook presented him with sliced meat between two pieces of toast- perfect! This meal required no utensils and could be eaten with one hand, leaving the other free to continue the game. Others began to order ‘the same as Sandwich’ and thus the ‘Sandwich’ was born.
The Sandwich began its life as a popular food that men shared whilst gaming and drinking at night, and slowly began filtering into polite society as a late night meal. The popularity of the sandwich gained momentum during the 19th century, when the rise of industrial society and the working classed made fast, portable, and inexpensive meals essential.
I found a couple of recipes for Anchovy Sandwiches:

[1869:Paris]
"Anchovy canapes.
Cut some slices of crumb of bread, 1/4 inch thick; cut these in pieces 2 1/2 inches long, 1 1/2 inch wide; and fry them in clarified butter, till a nice golden colour; When cold, spread the pieces with Anchovy Butter; Steep some anchovies in cold water; drain, open, and trim them; Place 4 fillets of anchovies, lengthwise, on each piece of bread, leaving three small spaces between the fillets; fill the first space with chopped hard-boiled white of egg; fill the middle space with chopped parsley, and the third with chopped hard-boiled yolk of egg; Dress the canapes in a flat china boat, or small dish, generally used for all these cold Hors d'oeuvre."
---The Royal Cookery Book, Jules Gouffe, translated and adapted for English use by Alphonse Gouffe [Sampson Low, Son & Marston:London] 1869 (p. 409)



[1874:London]
"234. --Anchovy toast.
Ingredients: Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste, No. 233. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added to the paste before laying on the toast."
---Mrs. Beeton's Cook Book, Isabella Beeton

The first instalment of of Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management was published in 1861. It sold over 60,000 copies in its first year of publication and nearly two million by 1868. I actually own a Victorian copy myself.




Call me romantic, but I really love the idea that this lid may have once graced a Victorian picnic.

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